Head designer, Demna Gvasalia and founder of Parisian brand, Vetements is sitting pretty at the moment with a bustling clothing line creating fashion pandemonium and a new title as artistic director of Balenciaga. At the moment, the fashion industry is quickly approaching a new dawn—an era where fashion is less about formality and more about approachability—clothes you can wear day in and day out. “Vetements came out of us questioning everything we knew about fashion during our lunch breaks,” stated the brand’s spokesperson.
Vetements and its seven collaborators—who all cut their teeth at Maison Martin Margiela—have built their line on the key premise that their clothes would sell and actually be worn—a forward-thinking fete that is paying off. Their off-kilter collections aren’t displayed in any original sense, there’s no cohesion or a reoccurring scheme, instead each piece is designed to stand on its own. The majority of Vetements garments are made with new fabrics, or recycled materials—both which are utilized to create their signature aesthetic of fuss-free apparel.
With the sudden departure of Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and Raf Simons at Dior—due to the industry’s high-octane speed—Gvasalia aims to rethink the industry’s current grueling demands in which deadlines and collections are met, as well as questioning the very necessity to pump out multiple collections for the sake of the market. “It’s just so confused that I feel something needs to happen to find a new mechanism or system to work because it is a lot of money wasted as well, on development, on selling things we don’t really need.” When delivering thought provoking designs, Gvasalia aims to simplify stating, “For me, fashion is something practical. It’s made to be worn rather than change things, otherwise you will be an artist.”
The sudden shakeup of top-tier designers leaving France’s most sought after fashion houses is creating a widespread discussion of industry standards and it appears as though Gvasalia—who has yet to debut his first collection at Balenciaga—is pushing things forward, with a swift wind of change blowing through Paris.VIEW SLIDESHOW